By Stephanie Abbajay

My biscotti placed a disappointing third in the fancy cookie category, but I still adore the Jersey County Fair. Naysayers abound, but I think the fair a terrific event all around, and am glad to see that it is still going strong. For me, the fair starts with the 4-H Foundation’s Barbeque and Livestock Auction on the Monday night of Fair Week. Every year, I drop off my entries in the culinary competition then hot foot it over to the grand stand, where I help my mother-in-law and grandmother-in-law serving lemonade and tea at the barbeque. It is immensely gratifying to serve all the 4-H kids, who have worked so hard with their animals and have spent the weekend showing them. Call me sappy, but it literally fills my heart with joy to see the kids, their families and all the bankers and business people who come out to support them. It is small town America at its best.

Then there is the Fair Parade, which I absolutely love. I took some ribbing from my fellow Rotarians this year because once we ran out of flags (which was very early on) I bailed from the parade route. In my defense, I stopped in front of Rudolph’s to open some bags of flags and was immediately swarmed by children. By the time I opened my bags and passed out the flags the Rotary float was five blocks away, down by the Cheney Mansion. I hustled myself a block or so then, realizing that I couldn’t catch up without running (and God forbid I run), I simply copped a seat in front of the Hembrow Center and watched the parade go by.

I love the derby and the rodeo and the rides and the kettle corn and the deep-fried Oreos and everything else, except the bathrooms, which are nasty by any measure. I always bring my own toilet paper.

But my favorite thing of all is the about the fair is the culinary competition in the Exhibit Hall. When I first moved here, I couldn’t believe things like this still went on in county fairs. But it’s the real deal here, where women of all ages still participate in strong numbers. This year, the superintendent reported that the participation rate was very strong in baked goods but that there was a much weaker showing in the canned categories. Maybe this is because canning is expensive and time-consuming, much more so than baking. Canning requires cans, lids, rings and, of course, ingredients, which are expensive (fruit, sugar). Even if you grow and harvest your own ingredients, canning is a laborious undertaking.

I began entering five years ago and have racked up a few ribbons; some first, some seconds, lots of thirds and even one Best in Show, a crowning achievement and quite possibly the proudest day of my life (seriously). I am hooked and I take it very seriously, as I think all who enter do.

But this year I was met with disappointment. I didn’t win best in show with my black chocolate biscotti with cranberries and almonds, which was entered in the fancy cookie category. I was told by those who know that biscotti was just too unusual for Jersey County and they were right; the judge didn’t know what it was and didn’t like it (though he gave me a third place, possibly recognizing the effort involved). However, the same judge disqualified the pecan tassies that were entered in the fancy cookie category because he didn’t think they were a cookie. When it comes to judging culinary competitions, it’s all subjective. That’s the way the cookie crumbles.

So, the biscotti got third, as did my corn muffins. My carrot cake took a first place. I burned my banana bread due to a faulty oven so I had to scratch that entry (and the supervisors were genuinely concerned about the havoc such an intemperate appliance could wreck on the world of a home cook). My peach preserves and plum jelly each got a second, bested – again!! – by Juanita Eyers, who is the doyenne of all things canned. She is the master (and also my great aunt-in-law), and beats me every year. She is a gracious winner and a few years ago taught me the secret to foam-free jams and jellies. No, I will not share it. Juanita won a slew of blues and the much-coveted High Points Trophy this year and announced that next year she will not be entering. Lookout ladies. Here’s our chance!

And so we wrap up another Fair Week, where, thankfully, the most pressing concerns we have to worry about are whether we burn our breads, have enough lemonade for the 4-H kids, find a parking spot that isn’t muddy, get a good seat for the derby and have clear skies for the parade. Would that every week were so simple.

Stephanie Abbajay is a columnist for the Jersey County Journal and a freelance writer. Her writings and blog may be read at www.stephanieabbajay.com.